La Carpio
La Carpio is an informal settlement located 10 kilometres west of downtown San José, Costa Rica, wedged between the heavily polluted Virilla and Torres rivers and next to the city's main landfill. Home to approximately 35,000 residents packed into a small area, it's Central America's largest binational community: 50% Costa Ricans, 49% Nicaraguan migrants, and 1% other nationalities.
La Carpio was founded in the early 1990s by Nicaraguan refugees fleeing civil war. An estimated 46,000 Nicaraguan migrants reached Costa Rica during the 1980s war, representing about 1% of Nicaragua's population at the time.
The settlement began as refugees built shelters from scraps of corrugated tin and whatever materials they could find. The community grew rapidly as immigrants found work opportunities and accessed Costa Rica's free healthcare and education system.
Recent political crisis in Nicaragua has brought fresh waves of migrants since 2018, though exact numbers are unknown.
La Carpio is characterised by extreme poverty, high unemployment, and homes built from packing crates and corrugated tin. Many buildings are two-storey concrete block structures housing families displaced by war, natural disasters, and poverty.
It's a neighbourhood where sleeping quarters and latrines often occupy the same space. Water is scarce, rubbish piles up in streets, and sewage flows in open channels.
Before the latest refugee influx, half the population lived in inadequate housing and 70% of households survived on less than $330 monthly. Adults lucky enough to find work typically clean houses, collect rubbish, or do lawn maintenance. Many residents are undocumented, creating substantial barriers to employment and services.
Rio Torres Pollution: The Torres River is San José's most polluted waterway. By the time it reaches La Carpio, it's essentially a flowing cesspool. A study by the National University found 100% of San José's rivers have moderate to severe pollution levels.
Dangerous Infrastructure: A suspension footbridge crosses the contaminated river, but vandals have stolen more than half the wooden planks. Despite the danger, mothers with children use this rickety bridge to save the 45-cent bus fare to work.
Twenty-seven percent of Costa Ricans drink water contaminated with faecal coliform and parasites. Research found widespread E. coli contamination, especially during wet season. A 2023 study revealed nitrate concentrations reaching 70mg/L in some urban areas—seven times the safe limit of 10mg/L.
The community's proximity to polluted rivers correlates with respiratory diseases. Medical volunteers documented oxygen saturation levels below 90% in many older residents, likely due to area pollution and poor healthcare access.
Despite Costa Rica's universal healthcare system, undocumented residents and those with limited income face serious challenges accessing medical care. Local clinics provide basic care but can't handle serious conditions, forcing residents to pay hefty costs or go without treatment.
Medical volunteers documented widespread hypertension and pre-hypertension in residents. These conditions would be immediately treated in developed countries but remain unmanaged in La Carpio due to systemic barriers.
Disease spreads easily due to inadequate education, overcrowded conditions, and poor sanitation. Yellow fever is prevalent, and polluted rivers contribute to various parasitic, fungal, bacterial, and viral
According to the 2011 census, average family size is four members with 2.5 children per household. Thirty-two percent of households are headed by women. The population breakdown: 63% working age (16-64), 35% children (0-14), and 2% elderly (65+).
Overcrowded conditions contribute to high disease rates and serious social issues including alarming rates of incest and sexual abuse.
The Costa Rican Humanitarian Foundation (CRHF), led by Gail Nystrom since 1997, has established schools, clinics, daycare centres, and various community programmes. The International Organisation for Migration supports integration projects, including the "Pan de Luz" bakery founded in 2020.
Despite ongoing challenges, conditions have improved significantly. Many residents now have concrete homes, children attend school, and some families have moved out of the community. Colourful buildings and children's smiles reflect improved community spirit.
La Carpio remains largely ignored by Costa Rican government, though it has received attention from international organisations including US State Department delegations. The community exemplifies both the challenges of displacement and poverty, and the resilience of human communities facing extreme adversity.